Our trip to Guangzhou was, to be perfectly honest, a complete accident. We were on our way back from a blissful holiday in Thailand, heading towards Budapest, when a long layover popped up on our itinerary. Fifteen hours in Guangzhou, China.

A city I knew almost nothing about, suddenly became our playground for a day. My fiancé, of course, was thrilled. He has a fascination with China and saw this as a bonus adventure.

I was a little more reserved.

Guangzhou, formerly known as Canton, is a sprawling metropolis in southern China and the capital of Guangdong province. It’s a major port on the Pearl River Delta and one of China’s most populous cities, with over 15 million people calling it home. It’s famous for its trade fairs, particularly the Canton Fair, its rich history, and of course, its world-renowned Cantonese cuisine.

For many travellers, it serves as a huge transport hub for flights across Asia, which is how you can find some incredibly cheap flights passing through. As Croatian citizens, we were able to take advantage of the 144-hour visa-free transit policy.

All it took was filling out a small arrival card, and just like that, we were officially in China for the day. No visa, no fuss. It was surprisingly straightforward.

 

A Country Without Google Maps

The moment we stepped out of the airport’s air-conditioned comfort, the reality of our situation hit us. My first instinct, as a modern-day traveller, was to pull out my phone and open Google Maps. Nothing. A blank screen.

It turns out, as we quickly discovered, that most Google services are blocked in China. Instead, they have their own ecosystem of apps, all in Chinese. We tried downloading a local map app, but it was a sea of characters we couldn’t decipher.

For a moment, a wave of panic washed over us. My fiancé, usually the calm and collected one, started to look genuinely worried. How were we going to navigate a city of 15 million people without our digital lifeline?

But then, a different feeling took over me. A sense of old-school adventure. I looked at my fiancé, who was still frantically trying to make sense of the Chinese app, and said, “Let’s just do it the old way.”

He looked at me like I was crazy. But I was determined. I wasn’t going to let a little technological hiccup ruin our unexpected day in China.

I spotted the signs for the metro, and with a surge of confidence, I grabbed his hand and said, “Come on, we’re taking the train to the city centre.” The look of sheer panic on his face was priceless, but I was fearless. We were going to explore Guangzhou, with or without a map.

 

Canton Tower and City Views

The metro ride itself was an experience. Clean, efficient, and surprisingly easy to navigate even without a map, it whisked us away from the airport and into the heart of the city. Stepping out of the station, we were immediately immersed in the sheer scale of Guangzhou.

Skyscrapers pierced the sky, and the streets were a blur of activity. But nothing could have prepared us for our first glimpse of the Canton Tower. This architectural marvel stands at an impressive 600 metres tall, making it one of the tallest TV towers in the world.

The tower’s unique twisted design is absolutely mesmerising – it’s tall, narrow, and elegant, cutting through the Guangzhou skyline like a modern-day needle. We knew we had to get closer to this incredible structure. The tower is located at the intersection of Guangzhou’s New City Central Axis and the Pearl River, making it a perfect landmark to orient ourselves in the city.

 

Wandering Through the Concrete Jungle: A Tale of Two Perspectives

We just started walking, with no particular destination in mind. We crossed a beautifully designed, large bridge that offered stunning views of the Pearl River and the city skyline. It was one of those moments where you just have to stop and take it all in.

The bridge provided the perfect vantage point to admire the Canton Tower from a distance, and I have to admit, it was quite spectacular against the backdrop of the river.

We wandered through the city centre, exploring the labyrinthine streets and alleyways. We made our way to Beijing Road, one of Guangzhou’s most famous pedestrian streets. This bustling shopping district is completely car-free, making it perfect for leisurely strolling and people-watching.

The street is lined with shops, department stores, and eateries, creating a vibrant atmosphere that pulses with energy. We stumbled upon bustling markets selling everything from traditional crafts to modern electronics, and we couldn’t resist picking up a few souvenirs to remember our impromptu adventure.

My fiancé was in his element. He was captivated by the energy of the city, the blend of old and new, and the constant hum of activity. He was already planning his next trip back to China.

My own feelings, however, were a little more complicated. While I could appreciate the impressive architecture and the efficiency of the city, I found it all a bit… robotic. It seemed like everyone was in their own little world, glued to their phones, with headphones shutting out the world around them.

There was very little interaction, very little of the chaotic, vibrant street life I’d experienced in other parts of Asia. It was a city that functioned perfectly, but for me, it lacked a certain soul. It’s just my personal opinion, of course, but I just didn’t connect with it in the way I’d hoped.

 

A Purr-fect Pit Stop: Discovering Guangzhou’s Cat Cafe Culture

One of the most delightful discoveries of our day was stumbling upon a cat cafe in the city centre. Located near Tuanyi Square subway station (Exit B), we found this charming little haven tucked away in a small alley just across the road from the station. You absolutely must visit a cat cafe if you’re in Guangzhou – it’s become quite the phenomenon in the city.

China’s first cat-friendly coffee shop actually opened in Guangzhou back in 2011, and now there are thousands of these adorable establishments throughout the country. The cafe we visited was cosy and welcoming, filled with friendly felines who seemed completely unbothered by the steady stream of visitors.

It was the perfect place to take a break from the bustling streets and enjoy a cup of coffee while being entertained by the resident cats. My fiancé, who’s not usually a cat person, found himself completely charmed by a particularly affectionate tabby who decided to make himself comfortable on his lap.

 

A Culinary Detour: My Surprising Encounter with Cantonese Cuisine

As midday approached, our stomachs started to rumble. It was time for another adventure: lunch. I’m not usually the most adventurous eater. I tend to stick to what I know and love.

But, when in Guangzhou, right? We found a small, bustling restaurant that looked popular with the locals – always a good sign. The menu was, once again, mostly in Chinese, but thankfully, it had a few pictures.

We pointed at a few dishes that looked appealing and hoped for the best.

What arrived at our table was a feast for the senses. We had ordered Char Siu, a type of barbecued pork with a sweet and savoury glaze, and a plate of Cheung Fun, steamed rice noodle rolls filled with shrimp. I was hesitant at first, but the aroma was incredible.

I took a bite of the Char Siu, and my eyes widened in surprise. It was absolutely delicious. The pork was tender and flavourful, and the glaze was the perfect balance of sweet and salty.

The Cheung Fun was a revelation too – soft, delicate, and packed with juicy shrimp. I have to admit, for someone who isn’t a fan of trying new foods, I was thoroughly impressed. It was a delicious and authentic taste of Cantonese cuisine, and it was one of the highlights of my day.

 

The Journey Back: A Wrong Turn and a Sea of Stares

As the afternoon wore on, it was time to start making our way back to the airport. We had a flight to catch, after all. Feeling confident after our successful navigation of the city, we hopped back on the metro.

Or so we thought. It wasn’t long before we realised we were on the wrong train, heading in the completely opposite direction. For a moment, that familiar feeling of panic started to creep back in.

But we had allowed ourselves plenty of time, so we were able to laugh it off. It was just another little misadventure to add to our story. We eventually found the right train and were on our way to the airport.

One thing I couldn’t help but notice throughout the day was the way people stared at me. I have long, blonde, braided hair, which, it turns out, is quite a novelty in Guangzhou. You don’t see many blondes there, and people were not shy about their curiosity.

They would turn and stare, their eyes wide with fascination. It wasn’t malicious or unfriendly, just pure, unadulterated curiosity. It was a strange feeling to be the centre of so much attention, but it was also a reminder of how beautifully diverse our world is.

 

Final Thoughts

So, what’s the final verdict on our whirlwind tour of Guangzhou? It’s a city of contrasts, that’s for sure. For my fiancé, it was love at first sight. He’s already dreaming of a return trip to explore more of what China has to offer.

For me, it was an interesting experience, but I can’t say I fell in love with the city. It felt a little too modern, a little too impersonal for my taste. But that’s the beauty of travel, isn’t it?

It’s all about personal experiences and different perspectives.

What I can say for sure is that Guangzhou is an incredibly convenient and affordable gateway to Asia. The 144-hour visa-free transit policy makes it a perfect stopover for a day or two of exploration. And who knows, you might just discover a new favourite food, have a little adventure on the metro, or simply enjoy the feeling of getting lost in a city that’s a world away from your own.

So, if you find yourself with a long layover in Guangzhou, don’t just sit in the airport. Embrace the unexpected. Go out and explore. You might be surprised by what you find.