Dubrovnik. Just saying the name makes me smile.

I remember the first time someone mentioned it to me – my Croatian friend Ana was going on about this “incredible walled city” that looked like something from Game of Thrones. I rolled my eyes a bit, thinking it was just another overhyped tourist trap.

Boy, was I wrong.

The “Pearl of the Adriatic” isn’t just a fancy nickname someone made up for tourism brochures. This place genuinely took my breath away. I’ve been to plenty of historic cities, but stepping through those ancient gates felt different. Maybe it was the way the morning light hit those limestone walls, or how the sea sparkled beyond the terracotta roofs.

Actually, let me back up a second. Before I get all dreamy about Dubrovnik’s beauty, we need to talk about something way less romantic: parking.

Oh my god, the parking situation here is absolutely mental.

I learned this lesson the hard way during my first visit in July 2023. Picture this: I’m driving around in circles for nearly an hour, getting increasingly sweaty and frustrated, watching parking prices that would make your wallet weep. We’re talking €10 per hour in some spots – and that’s not even the worst part. The zone right next to the Old Town? A daily ticket costs €200. Two hundred euros! For parking!

I actually laughed out loud when I saw that sign. Then I cried a little.

My advice? Do what I should have done from the start. Park further out and walk or take a bus. Your bank account will thank you, and honestly, the walk isn’t that bad. Plus, you get to see more of the city that way.

Okay, parking rant over. Let’s talk about why this place is worth every parking headache.

 

Morning: Walking the Walls

Here’s what nobody tells you about Dubrovnik’s famous city walls: they’re basically a two-hour workout disguised as sightseeing.

I started my wall walk at 8 AM sharp, thinking I was being clever by beating the crowds. The ticket booth guy looked at me like I was slightly insane for being there so early, but he took my €35 with a shrug. (Pro tip: this ticket also gets you into Fort Lovrijenac, so don’t lose it like I almost did.)

The first section was easy enough. I was taking photos every few steps, feeling very pleased with myself. The views over the Old Town are genuinely spectacular – all those terracotta roofs creating this perfect geometric pattern against the blue sea.

But then came the stairs. So many stairs.

About halfway through, I was seriously questioning my life choices. There was this elderly German couple who kept overtaking me, chatting cheerfully in perfect English about the medieval architecture while I was trying not to wheeze too obviously.

The thing is, every single step is worth it. When you reach the highest point and look out over the Adriatic, with those tiny islands scattered in the distance… I actually got a bit emotional. It’s one of those views that makes you understand why people have been fighting over this place for centuries.

 

Stradun: Where Everyone Goes to See and Be Seen

After my wall adventure (and a much-needed coffee break), I wandered down Stradun. This is Dubrovnik’s main street, and it’s basically where the entire city comes to life.

The limestone pavement is so polished it’s almost mirror-like. I spent ages trying to get a decent photo without tourists in the background – spoiler alert: impossible during summer. But that’s part of the charm, I suppose.

I found this tiny café called Café Festival tucked into one of the side streets. The owner, Marko, makes the best macchiato I’ve had outside of Italy. We ended up chatting for ages about how tourism has changed the city. He’s been running the café for fifteen years and has some fascinating stories about the early days after the war.

From Stradun, I made my way to the Rector’s Palace. The €15 entrance fee felt steep at first, but the Gothic-Renaissance architecture is genuinely impressive. The courtyard is Instagram-perfect, though I spent more time admiring the intricate stone carvings than taking selfies.

 

Where to Eat in Dubrovnik?

Let me be honest about food in Dubrovnik – it’s a bit of a minefield. The Old Town is packed with restaurants, but many are tourist traps with mediocre food and inflated prices.

For Seafood Lovers: I had my best meal at Konoba Dalmatino, hidden in a narrow alley near the cathedral. The black risotto was incredible, and the owner’s grandmother apparently taught him the recipe. It’s the kind of place where locals actually eat, which is always a good sign.

For Meat Enthusiasts: Restaurant Dubrovnik (yes, very original name) serves excellent grilled meats. I had their lamb peka, which is slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid. Takes forever but worth the wait.

For Pizza Lovers: Pizzeria Tabasco might sound touristy, but they make proper wood-fired pizzas. The owner is Italian and very particular about his dough. I watched him reject three pizzas that didn’t meet his standards.

For Traditional Croatian Cuisine: Konoba Kopun specializes in traditional Dubrovnik recipes. Their green menestra (a local stew) was unlike anything I’d tried before.

For Fine Dining: Restaurant 360 is Michelin-starred and located right on the city walls. Yes, it’s expensive, but the tasting menu was genuinely exceptional. Book weeks in advance.

For Budget-Friendly Options: Sandwich Bar Dubrovnik near Pile Gate makes fantastic sandwiches with local ingredients. Perfect for a quick lunch between sightseeing.

 

Attraction	Opening Hours	Ticket Price
City Walls	8:00 AM – 7:30 PM	€35
Rector’s Palace	9:00 AM – 6:00 PM	€15
Cable Car	9:00 AM – 12:00 AM	€27 (round trip)

 

The Cable Car: Worth Every Euro (Almost)

The cable car to Mount Srđ was my afternoon adventure. At €27 for a round trip, it’s not cheap, but the views are absolutely mental.

I’ll admit, I’m slightly afraid of heights, so the ride up was… interesting. The cable car basically shoots straight up the mountainside, and about halfway up, I made the mistake of looking down. Big mistake.

But reaching the top? Pure magic.

You can see the entire city spread out below you, those famous walls forming a perfect circle around the Old Town. The Elaphiti Islands look like scattered emeralds in the distance. I spent nearly two hours up there, just sitting on a bench and taking it all in.

There’s a restaurant at the top, but honestly, the food is nothing special. Go for the views, not the cuisine.

 

The Famous Buža Bars: Finding the Hole in the Wall

Everyone talks about the Buža bars, but nobody tells you how tricky they are to find. I spent twenty minutes wandering around the city walls looking for this mysterious “hole in the wall.”

Finally, a local kid (probably about ten years old) took pity on me and pointed to what looked like a crack in the stone. “Buža,” he said with a grin, clearly amused by another confused tourist.

You literally have to squeeze through this tiny opening in the wall, and suddenly you’re on this rocky terrace hanging over the sea. It’s completely surreal.

I ordered a beer (€8 – ouch) and found a spot on the rocks. The sunset that evening was absolutely spectacular. The sky turned this incredible shade of orange-pink, and the sea looked like liquid gold.

There were maybe thirty other people there, all sitting in comfortable silence, watching the sun disappear into the Adriatic. It’s one of those travel moments you can’t really capture in a photo – you just have to be there.

 

Dinner Disasters and Triumphs

I made the classic tourist mistake of choosing a restaurant based on its location rather than its reviews. Restaurant Panorama has incredible views but terrible food. My seafood pasta was clearly reheated, and the service was indifferent at best.

Lesson learned: in Dubrovnik, always check reviews and ask locals for recommendations.

 

What if I have more than one day in Dubrovnik?

If you’re lucky enough to have more time, definitely explore beyond the city walls.

The Elaphiti Islands are gorgeous – I took a day trip to Lopud and spent hours on its sandy beach (a rarity in Croatia). Lokrum Island is just a short boat ride away and has this mysterious abandoned monastery that’s perfect for exploring.

Cavtat is a charming coastal town about 30 minutes south. Much quieter than Dubrovnik but equally beautiful.

 

Conclusion: Dubrovnik, Parking Nightmares and All

Look, I’m not going to lie to you. Dubrovnik can be expensive, crowded, and occasionally frustrating (especially if you’re driving).

But it’s also genuinely magical.

There’s something about walking those ancient walls, sipping wine as the sun sets over the Adriatic, and exploring streets that have barely changed in centuries. It’s touristy, yes, but it’s touristy for good reason.

I left Dubrovnik with a lighter wallet, a phone full of photos, and this overwhelming urge to come back. Maybe next time I’ll take the bus.