Rovinj

I’ve been lucky enough to call Croatia my home for over a decade, and in that time, I’ve explored almost every corner of my beautiful country. But there’s one place that I keep coming back to, a place that has a special kind of magic that never fades: Rovinj.

This isn’t just another pretty Istrian town. Rovinj is a feeling. It’s the feeling of getting lost in a maze of cobblestone streets, of sipping a glass of Malvasia by the sea as the sun sets, of watching the fishing boats bob in the harbour while dodging aggressive seagulls trying to steal your lunch. It’s a place that feels more Italian than Croatian, a legacy of its 500 years under Venetian rule. And it’s a place that I’m going to share with you, through my eyes and hard-earned local knowledge.

But first, let me give you the insider scoop that most travel guides won’t tell you. Timing is absolutely everything when it comes to Rovinj.

In July and August, this town transforms into something completely different. The narrow streets are packed shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists, the beaches are so crowded you can barely find a spot to lay your towel, restaurant prices skyrocket, and the whole place loses that intimate, romantic charm that makes it special. I’ve seen people literally queuing to take photos at the most Instagram-worthy spots. It’s still beautiful, of course, but it’s a different kind of beautiful – more like visiting a theme park than discovering a hidden gem.

If you want to experience the real Rovinj, the one that made me fall head over heels in love with this place, come in spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October). The weather is still gorgeous – warm enough for swimming and dining al fresco, but without that oppressive summer heat. The crowds are manageable, the locals are more relaxed, and you can actually hear the sound of the waves lapping against the harbour walls instead of the constant chatter of tour groups.

I particularly love visiting in early September. The sea is still warm from the summer months, the light has that golden quality that photographers dream about, and there’s this wonderful sense of having the town to yourself again.

The Parking Situation: A Pleasant Surprise

Now, let’s talk about something that can make or break a trip to any popular Croatian coastal destination: parking. If you’ve been to Dubrovnik, you know the horror stories about €200 daily parking fees. Well, here’s some good news – Rovinj is refreshingly different.Free parking actually exists here and it’s not impossible to find. My secret spot, which I’m sharing with you because I’m feeling generous, is in a little wooded area just above the Zvane Crnje High School. It’s about a 10-minute pleasant walk to the Old Town, mostly downhill on the way there (though you’ll feel it on the way back up). The exact location is here.

The walk itself is part of the charm. You’ll pass through quiet residential streets where locals tend their gardens and hang laundry on lines strung between buildings. It’s a glimpse into everyday Istrian life that you won’t get if you park right in the town centre.

Morning: Conquering the Bell Tower and Dodging Dive-Bombing Seagulls

There’s no better way to start your day in Rovinj than by climbing to the top of the Church of St. Euphemia. This baroque beauty dominates the skyline, and its bell tower – modelled after Venice’s St. Mark’s Campanile – offers the most incredible panoramic views of the town and the surrounding islands.
Rovinj bell

The climb costs about €4, and it’s worth every cent. I always go up first thing in the morning when the light is soft and golden, and the town is just starting to wake up. From the top, you can see the fishing boats heading out to sea, their engines putting out gentle trails in the calm water. The whole town spreads out below you like a perfectly arranged postcard – those famous colourful houses cascading down to the harbour, the maze of narrow streets, and the endless blue of the Adriatic stretching to the horizon.

But here’s where I need to give you a crucial warning that no other travel guide will mention: the seagulls in Rovinj are absolutely ruthless.

I’m not talking about your average, slightly cheeky seaside gulls. These are professional food thieves with zero shame and lightning-fast reflexes. I once watched in horror as a seagull swooped down and snatched an entire slice of pizza right out of a tourist’s hand. The poor woman was so shocked she just stood there with her mouth open while the gull flew off with its prize.

My friend Marco, who runs a café near the harbour, told me he’s seen gulls steal gelato cones, sandwiches, and even a whole fish from someone’s plate. They’re particularly aggressive during lunch hours when the outdoor restaurant terraces are full. So if you’re planning on eating anything outdoors, keep it covered until the very last second, and be prepared to defend your food like your life depends on it.

Exploring the Old Town: A Maze of Venetian Charm

After your tower climb and potential seagull encounter, it’s time to get lost in the Old Town. This is honestly my favourite thing to do in Rovinj – just wander aimlessly through the narrow, winding streets with no particular destination in mind.

The Old Town is built on a small peninsula, and the medieval street layout creates this wonderful maze effect. Even though the area is quite small, you can spend hours discovering hidden courtyards, tiny art galleries tucked into ancient buildings, and artisan workshops where locals still practice traditional crafts.Start Gelateria Italia near the harbour – they make the best gelato in town, and you’ll need the energy for all the walking ahead. Then just follow your instincts. Duck down narrow alleyways, climb steep stone steps, and peek into hidden courtyards. Every corner reveals something new – a beautifully painted door, a tiny shrine tucked into a wall, or a cat sunbathing on ancient stones.

Rovinj charming street
The architecture tells the story of Rovinj’s complex history. You’ll see Venetian Gothic windows, Austrian-era buildings, and medieval stone houses all jumbled together in this wonderful architectural potpourri. The Italian influence is everywhere – in the bilingual street signs, the architectural details, and even in the way locals greet each other.

Afternoon: Beach Time and Culinary Adventures

After a morning of exploration, you’ll have worked up an appetite and probably a desire to cool off in the sea. Rovinj is blessed with some beautiful beaches, each with its own character.

The Secret Sandy Beach

My absolute favourite spot is a small, sandy beach located just to the left of the Old Town, near the hotel Lone. Most visitors head to the more famous beaches, but this little gem is often overlooked. The sand is soft and white, the water is crystal clear, and it has this intimate, secluded feeling that makes you feel like you’ve discovered your own private paradise.Here’s the exact location: Aquapark Lone area.

If you prefer a more social beach experience, Lone Bay Beach offers stunning views of the Old Town peninsula and has a large park area where you can spread out. Cuvi Beach is perfect if you want to combine beach time with a bike ride through the scenic Cuvi Park.

Where to Eat: From Michelin Stars to Local Favourites

Rovinj’s food scene is absolutely incredible, ranging from Michelin-starred fine dining to humble local joints that serve the best pizza in Istria.

For the Ultimate Splurge: Monte is Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, and it’s located right here in Rovinj. Chef Danijel Đekić was actually born in the house where the restaurant now stands, next to St. Euphemia church. The tasting menu is a journey through Istrian flavours, with dishes that showcase local ingredients like truffles, olive oil, and fresh seafood. It’s expensive, but it’s a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience.

For the Best Local Pizza: Forget the touristy places – head straight to Dan i Noć (Day and Night) bakery. This is where locals go for their pizza fix, and once you try it, you’ll understand why. The pizza is cheap, cheerful, and absolutely delicious. The crust is perfectly crispy, the toppings are generous, and it’s the perfect fuel for an afternoon of exploring.

Pizza in Rovinj

For Romantic Waterfront Dining: The small cafés and restaurants that line the waterfront are more expensive than places in the backstreets, but the setting is absolutely magical. Puntulina literally hangs over the sea – you can hear the waves lapping beneath your feet while you dine. Yes, you’ll pay more for the location, but watching the sunset over the Adriatic while sipping local wine is worth every euro.

For Traditional Istrian Cuisine: Konoba Jure is a family-run place that serves simple, authentic Istrian food. Their grilled fish is caught fresh daily, and their homemade pasta with truffles is a taste of Istria on a plate. It’s the kind of place where the owner’s grandmother’s recipes are still used in the kitchen.

For Fresh Seafood: La Puntulina takes advantage of its cliffside location to serve diners right at the edge of the Adriatic. The seafood comes literally from the waters you’re looking at, and the setting is unbeatable.

Attraction Opening Hours Ticket Price
Church of St. Euphemia Bell Tower 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM €4
Rovinj Heritage Museum 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM €5
Batana Eco-Museum 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM, 6:00 PM – 9:00 PM €4

 

Active Adventures: Biking Through Paradise

One of the best ways to explore Rovinj and its surroundings is by bike. The terrain is relatively flat, the scenery is gorgeous, and it’s how many locals get around.

Cuvi Park is perfect for a morning bike ride through pine forests alongside the seashore. The paths are well-maintained, and there are plenty of spots to stop and take photos or just enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.
You can also bike through the quieter residential neighbourhoods of Rovinj, which offer a completely different perspective from the busy Old Town. These areas are peaceful and authentic, giving you a glimpse into how locals actually live.

Many vacation rentals provide bikes, or you can easily rent one in town. It’s an eco-friendly way to get around and lets you cover more ground than walking while still being able to stop whenever something catches your eye.

Evening: Romance and Wine Under the Stars

As evening approaches, Rovinj transforms into one of the most romantic places on earth. The narrow streets are lit by warm gas lamps, live music drifts from hidden courtyards, and the whole town seems to glow with this magical golden light.

Sunset Drinks with a View

There’s no better way to start your evening than with a drink at one of the waterfront cafés. Yes, they’re more expensive than the places tucked away in the backstreets, but the view is absolutely worth it. Find a table right by the water, order a glass of local Istrian wine (the Malvasia is particularly good), and watch the fishing boats return as the sun sets over the sea.
Wine in Istria
The light during golden hour in Rovinj is something special. The whole town seems to be painted in warm honey tones, and the reflections in the harbour create this dreamy, almost surreal atmosphere.

A Fairytale Dinner Experience

For a truly magical end to your day, consider venturing slightly outside town to Tipico Green Garden Restaurant. You’ll need to take a scenic gravel road through the trees to reach this hidden gem, but the journey is part of the experience.

What you’ll discover is a rustic stone building set in the middle of a vineyard, with picturesque trellises and hammocks scattered between the rows of grapevines. You can dine on the patio or right in the vineyard itself, surrounded by twinkling fairy lights while drinking wine made from the grapes growing around you.

It’s like something out of a fairytale, and it’s the perfect way to end a perfect day in Rovinj.

Beyond One Day: Island Hopping and Istrian Adventures

If you’re lucky enough to have more than one day in Rovinj, the surrounding area offers incredible opportunities for exploration.

Island Hopping: Take a boat trip to explore the nearby islands. Each has its own character and charm, and the boat ride itself offers beautiful views of the Istrian coastline.

Istrian Hill Towns: The hilltop towns of Motovun and Grožnjan are within easy driving distance and offer a completely different perspective on Istrian life. Motovun is famous for its truffles, while Grožnjan is known as the “Town of Artists.”

Wine and Truffle Tours: Istria is one of Croatia’s premier wine regions, and truffle hunting in the forests of central Istria is an unforgettable experience.

Pula’s Roman Heritage: The Roman amphitheatre in Pula is one of the best-preserved in the world and makes for an excellent day trip.

 Pula amphiteatre

Practical Tips for Your Rovinj Adventure

Best Time to Visit: April-May and September-October for perfect weather without summer crowds. July-August if you don’t mind crowds and higher prices.

Getting Around: The Old Town is entirely walkable. Bikes are perfect for exploring the surrounding areas and parks.

Language: Most locals speak English, Italian, and German in addition to Croatian. Don’t be surprised to hear Italian being spoken – it’s completely normal here.

Currency: Croatia uses the Euro. Most places accept cards, but it’s good to have some cash for small purchases.

What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes for the cobblestone streets, sunscreen, and a camera. If you’re visiting in summer, bring a hat and plenty of water.

Why Rovinj Will Steal Your Heart?

My love affair with Rovinj began over a decade ago, and it shows no signs of fading. This isn’t just another pretty coastal town – it’s a place with soul, character, and an almost magical ability to make you fall in love with life itself.

From the breathtaking views from St. Euphemia’s bell tower to the romantic dinners by the sea, from the aggressive seagulls to the hidden sandy beaches, Rovinj offers experiences that will stay with you long after you’ve returned home. It’s a place where you can get lost in medieval streets, discover hidden gems around every corner, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

Whether you’re seeking romance, adventure, culinary delights, or simply a place to slow down and appreciate the beauty of life, Rovinj delivers in spades. It’s the perfect size for a day trip – small enough to explore thoroughly, but rich enough in experiences to leave you planning your return visit before you’ve even left.I hope this guide helps you discover the magic of this incredible town for yourself. Just remember to guard your food from the seagulls, and don’t blame me if you end up falling in love with Rovinj just like I did.