Croatia is full of stunning islands, but few have a personality as distinct and multifaceted as Pag. Often called the “moon island” for its stark, rocky landscapes, Pag is a place of incredible contrasts. On one hand, it’s home to Zrće, the undisputed party capital of the Adriatic. On the other, it’s a bastion of ancient traditions, world-class cuisine, and breathtaking natural beauty.

I’ve spent a lot of time exploring this island, and while I’ll be the first to tell you that one day is hardly enough, you can still get a fantastic taste of what makes Pag so special. Here’s my personal guide to the perfect day on this unforgettable island.

 

Getting to the Island

First things first, you need to get there. You have two main options, both offering a scenic introduction to the island.

By Car via the Pag Bridge: This is the most direct way to get onto the island from the south. The bridge itself is an impressive sight. However, be warned: during the winter months, the infamous bura wind can be incredibly strong, and the bridge is occasionally closed to traffic, especially for larger vehicles. It’s rare for personal cars to be restricted, but it’s always good to check the conditions beforehand.

As soon as you cross the bridge, you can pull over to the left and climb up to Fortica, a small fortress that offers a stunning panoramic view of the sea, the bridge, and the dramatic rocky landscapes of Pag — the perfect first stop to truly take in the island’s unique character.

By Ferry: The Prizna-Žigljen ferry line is a classic island-hopping experience. In the high season, the ride costs around €20 for a car, plus an additional €4.50 per person. Outside of the main summer months, the passenger fee drops to about €2.50. There’s something magical about approaching the island by sea and watching its rocky shores grow larger.

My advice? Come by car. Pag is a long, sprawling island, and having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to explore its many hidden corners at your own pace.

 

Morning: A Taste of Tradition in Pag Town

I always recommend starting your day in Pag town, the island’s cultural and administrative heart. Forget the party scene for a moment and immerse yourself in history. As you wander through the narrow, stone-paved streets, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The town is a beautiful maze of medieval architecture and tightly-packed stone houses.

This is the birthplace of Paška čipka (Pag lace), a UNESCO-protected craft that is famous worldwide. You’ll often see local women sitting in their doorways, meticulously weaving the intricate, needle-pointed lace. It’s a tradition passed down through generations and a beautiful piece of Croatian heritage.

While you’re here, you must try baškotini. These are special, hard, sweet rusks made by the Benedictine nuns of the St. Margaret convent. The recipe is a closely guarded secret, and they are an absolute local delicacy. They are perfect with a morning coffee.

If you’re visiting around August 15th, you’re in for a treat. This is the Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa), and a huge procession takes place, carrying a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary from the Old Town (Stari Grad) to the main church in Pag town.

The statue is then returned on the Feast of the Nativity of Mary (Mala Gospa) in September. It’s a deeply spiritual and moving event to witness.

 

Lunch: The Legendary Flavors of Pag

After a morning of exploring, you’ll have worked up an appetite. Pag is a foodie paradise, and you can’t leave without trying its most famous dish: Paška janjetina (Pag lamb). The island’s sheep graze on wild, aromatic herbs like sage, which are naturally salted by the sea spray carried by the bura wind. This gives the meat a unique, delicate, and unforgettable flavor.

For an authentic experience, I highly recommend Konoba Bodulo right in Pag town. They prepare the lamb traditionally, and it’s simply divine. If you’re in the mood for something quicker, you can’t go wrong with Tasty, which, in my humble opinion, makes the best cheeseburger on the planet.

 

Afternoon: Adventure in the Lunar Landscape

Next, it’s time to head towards Metajna, a village surrounded by some of the most dramatic scenery on the island. This area is famous for the Life on Mars trail, a hiking route that truly lives up to its name. The rocky, barren landscape feels otherworldly.

Nearby, you’ll find two of the island’s most stunning beaches: Ručica and Beritnica.

These are pebble beaches with crystal-clear water, framed by the stark, white hills. They are a photographer’s dream.

For the adrenaline junkies, this area holds a special secret. A thirty-minute walk from the beach will lead you to a spectacular Via Ferrata. This is one of the most beautiful in Croatia, as the climbing route takes you along cliffs directly above the sea. It’s an incredible experience, and if you happen to slip, you’ll just fall into the refreshing water below!

 

Evening: Sunsets and Pizza in Novalja

As the day winds down, make your way to Novalja. It’s a lively town that’s beautiful for an evening stroll. From here, you can also catch a catamaran to the nearby island of Rab or back to the mainland city of Rijeka.

For dinner, I have to recommend the pizza at Pod Zvon. They have a wide selection, but my personal favorite is the one with mortadella and pistachio. It’s a flavor combination you won’t forget. Novalja also has plenty of other great restaurants, whether you’re looking for fresh fish or other local specialties.

To cap off your day, you need to find the perfect sunset spot. The absolute best view on the island is from Sveti Vid, its highest peak. It’s about a 90-minute hike to the top, but the panoramic view is worth every step. On a clear day, you can sometimes even see the coast of Italy in the distance. If you’re not up for the hike, a great alternative is the viewpoint at the antennas, which you can reach by car or bike for an equally stunning, albeit less elevated, view.

 

For the Night Owls: The Phenomenon of Zrće

Of course, no guide to Pag would be complete without mentioning Zrće Beach. If you’re looking to party, this is your destination. Just a short drive from Novalja, this pebble beach is lined with world-famous open-air clubs that host festivals all summer long. There’s something for every taste in electronic music.

A quick note: you might be surprised to find the beach littered with small metal canisters. These are from nitrous oxide, or “laughing gas,” so don’t be alarmed if you see the ground covered in them – it’s a common sight.

 

More to Explore

As I said, one day is just a teaser. If you have more time, I highly recommend exploring the ancient olive groves in Lun, taking a dip at the beautiful Sveti Duh beach, or renting a kayak from Šimuni or Metajna to discover hidden coves. There are also organized boat tours that can take you around the stunningly indented coastline and to the “Vrata Paga” (Gates of Pag).

Pag is an island that rewards curiosity. It’s a place where lunar landscapes meet ancient traditions, and wild parties coexist with quiet, hidden bays. While this itinerary gives you a packed and unforgettable day, I have a feeling you’ll leave wanting to come back for more. I know I always do.