Bari
My journey to Bari, a vibrant port city nestled on Italy’s Adriatic coast, began with an almost unbelievable deal: a Ryanair flight from Zadar for a mere 15 euros each way!
It was an opportunity too good to pass up, a chance for my “guzica da vidi malo puta” (my behind to see a bit of the world), as we say. The weather was absolutely perfect, setting the stage for what promised to be a delightful weekend escape in Italy.
Bari, the capital of the Apulia region, is a city steeped in history, known for its strategic port, its university, and as the city of Saint Nicholas. With a population of over 315,000, it’s one of southern Italy’s most significant economic centers. Its old town, Bari Vecchia, is a maze of narrow streets, ancient churches, and picturesque courtyards.
Murat Quarter
The more modern Murat quarter boasts a grand promenade and bustling shopping streets. This area, laid out on a rectangular grid-plan, is the commercial heart of the city, offering a different architectural style and a vibrant atmosphere for shopping and people-watching.
Where to Stay in Bari?
We opted for accommodation right in the heart of Bari, understanding that central locations often come with a higher price tag. To manage costs, we settled for a room with a shared bathroom, which, while not luxurious, served its purpose perfectly for our short stay. Luckily, our favorite discovery was right next door.
Where to Eat in Bari?
Croissant Bakery
This place quickly became a highlight of our trip. I can confidently say they serve the bbest croissants and krafne (doughnuts) I’ve ever tasted. We found ourselves drawn back there two days in a row, indulging in their incredible pastries. The absolute must-try is their half-vanilla, half-chocolate croissant. It’s pulled straight from the oven, so fresh that it practically melts in your mouth. You simply have to try it; it’s an experience that will linger long after the last crumb is gone.
Pizzeria de Michele
For an authentic taste of Neapolitan pizza right in Bari, you absolutely must try Pizzeria de Michele. This legendary pizzeria, with its simple menu and bustling atmosphere, serves up some of the most delicious and traditional pizzas you’ll ever encounter.
The crust is perfectly charred, the sauce is rich and flavorful, and the fresh mozzarella melts in your mouth. It’s an experience that transports you straight to Naples, and a definite highlight for any food lover.
Don Fish
While exploring Bari Vecchia, especially near the cathedral, you absolutely must seek out Don Fish. This unassuming spot offers some of the most perfect crispy fried calamari and shrimp I’ve ever tasted.
It’s a true local gem, ideal for a quick, delicious bite that captures the essence of Bari’s fresh seafood. The crunch, the flavor – it’s an experience you shouldn’t miss!
What to See in Bari?
The Lungomare
Our exploration of Bari began with a leisurely walk along the city’s impressive walls, known as the Lungomare. This seafront promenade stretches for several kilometers, offering breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea.
It’s a perfect spot for a morning stroll, feeling the sea breeze and watching the city wake up. The Lungomare is not just a walkway; it’s a vital part of Bari’s identity, connecting the old town with the more modern parts of the city and providing a scenic backdrop for daily life.
Bari Vecchia
Continuing our walk, we ventured into Bari Vecchia, the old town, a place where history whispers from every stone. The narrow, winding streets are perfect for getting lost in, discovering hidden courtyards, and stumbling upon local artisan shops.
It’s here that you can truly feel the pulse of the city, observing daily life unfold.
Piazza Mercantile
Just beyond the heart of Bari Vecchia lies Piazza Mercantile, a historic square that has served as a commercial and social hub since medieval times. It’s a lively spot, surrounded by historic buildings and dotted with cafes, making it a great place to soak in the local atmosphere. The square also features the Colonna della Giustizia, or Column of Justice, a historical landmark with a fascinating past.
The Orecchiette Street
One of the most captivating sights in Bari Vecchia is undoubtedly the “orecchiette street”,” where local women, often matriarchs, sit outside their homes, skillfully crafting fresh pasta by hand. It’s a mesmerizing process to watch: with practiced ease, they flatten small pieces of dough and, with a flick of a knife and a thumb, transform them into the characteristic ear-shaped pasta known as orecchiette.
The rhythmic sound of their work, the flour dusting their hands, and the piles of freshly made pasta drying on wooden boards create an unforgettable scene. It’s not just a culinary tradition; it’s a liliving, breathing piece of Bari’s culture, passed down through generations, and a testament to the city’s authentic charm.
Saint Nicholas Cathedral
Our first significant stop within the old town was the Basilica di San Nicola, a truly magnificent church with immense religious significance. It was built in the late 11th century to house the relics of Saint Nicholas, which were brought to Bari in 1087.
The basilica’s Romanesque architecture is stunning, and its interior is a treasure trove of art and history. The atmosphere inside is incredibly serene, a stark contrast to the bustling streets outside.
Cattedrale di San Sabino
Just a short walk from the Basilica, we encountered the Cattedrale di San Sabino, Bari’s main cathedral. This 12th-century Romanesque masterpiece is dedicated to Saint Sabinus and stands on the site of an earlier Byzantine church.
As we approached, we noticed a somber gathering. A funeral was underway, and to my astonishment, a luxurious Maserati, specially adapted for funeral services, delivered the deceased to the church.
I have never seen such a bespoke vehicle for a funeral home before; it was a truly unique and somewhat surreal sight amidst the ancient architecture.
What to Do in the Afternoon?
Teatro Petruzzelli
For a touch of culture, a visit to the Teatro Petruzzelli is a must. This grand opera house is the largest theater in Bari and the fourth largest in Italy. Its opulent interior and rich history make it a significant cultural landmark. Even if you don’t catch a performance, admiring its architecture from the outside is well worth it.
Castello Normanno-Svevo
A visit to the Castello Normanno-Svevo, the Norman-Swabian Castle, is also highly recommended. This imposing fortress, originally built by the Normans and later modified by Frederick II, offers a glimpse into Bari’s tumultuous past and provides excellent views of the city and harbor.
Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto
For art lovers, the Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto is a hidden gem. Located on the fourth floor of the historic Palazzo della Provincia, this art gallery houses an impressive collection of Apulian art, ranging from medieval to contemporary works. It’s a wonderful place to spend an hour or two, immersing yourself in the region’s artistic heritage.
My Honest Opinion of Bari
While Bari boasts incredible historical sites and culinary delights, I must admit, the city itself didn’t entirely win me over. It felt a bit grimy in places, and the overall cleanliness left something to be desired. It’s a city of stark contrasts, where ancient beauty coexists with a certain ruggedness.
However, I believe it’s important to experience these authentic aspects of a place, even if they don’t always align with postcard-perfect expectations. The cheap flights were the catalyst, and sometimes, you just have to embrace the journey for what it is, even if it means seeing a side of Italy that isn’t always polished.
Evening in Bari: Culinary Delights and Relaxed Evenings
As evening approached, our thoughts turned to dinner. Bari is renowned for its fresh seafood, and there are countless trattorias and restaurants offering traditional Apulian cuisine. While I didn’t have a specific restaurant recommendation beyond our beloved Croissant, I can attest that finding delicious, authentic food is never a challenge in Bari. Look for places where locals gather, and you’re sure to find a memorable meal.
After dinner, a stroll along the Lungomare again, perhaps as the sun sets, offers a different kind of magic. The city lights reflecting on the Adriatic create a serene atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. Bari might not be the most glamorous Italian city, but its authentic charm, rich history, and incredible food make it a worthwhile destination, especially when you can get there for such a bargain.
Conclusion: An Unforgettable Stopover
My one day in Bari, though brief and perhaps not entirely what I expected, was undeniably an experience. From the incredibly affordable flight that kicked off the adventure to the melt-in-your-mouth croissants and the unexpected funeral procession at the cathedral, Bari offered a unique blend of history, culture, and raw authenticity.
It might not have been love at first sight, but it was certainly an eye-opening journey that proved the value of seizing opportunities, especially when they come with such a friendly price tag. Bari, with all its imperfections and charm, is a city that leaves an impression, and I’m glad my “guzica” got to see it, even if just for a day. It certainly motivates me to explore more of Italy’s lesser-known gems in the future.