Mahé is the big island of the Seychelles – where you land, where the capital Victoria is, and where most people spend at least a few nights. We rented a car and drove around the island beach by beach, stopping wherever the water looked good and eating where the locals eat. Mahé is also where my notes are the longest, because almost every bay is different: some are perfect for swimming, some are wild with big waves, and a few honestly aren’t worth the drive.
Here is my one-day Mahé itinerary for 2027 with the most beautiful beaches, where to swim and where not to, cheap Creole food tips and how to drive the island. Planning more islands? Read my Seychelles travel guide and add one day on La Digue and one day on Praslin.
Mahé at a glance
- Best for: beach-hopping by car, swimming, Creole food, mountain viewpoints and Victoria
- Getting around: rental car (they drive on the left), local buses or taxis
- Roads: very narrow and winding – we drove slowly, around 30 km/h on many stretches
- My favourite beaches: Petite Anse, Anse Intendance, Takamaka and the little public beach by the market
- Skip: the Port Glaud “Blue Lagoon” – small, not clean and no sandy sea floor
- Money: Seychelles rupee (SCR); in 2026 €1 was roughly 16–17 SCR
Driving on Mahé: what to expect
Renting a car was the best decision we made on Mahé – you can stop at any beach, viewpoint or takeaway you like. Just know what you’re getting into: in the Seychelles you drive on the left, and the roads are very narrow, often with no shoulder, steep drops, sharp bends and buses coming the other way. We drove slowly – around 30 km/h on many sections – and that was absolutely fine, because nothing on Mahé is far.
- Pull over to let buses and locals pass – nobody minds.
- Many beaches have only a small parking area; arrive in the morning on weekends.
- Don’t leave valuables visible in the car at beach car parks.
- Download offline maps – mobile signal can drop in the mountains.
Swimming, waves and the trade winds
This is the most important thing to understand on Mahé: the sea changes with the season and with the side of the island. The Seychelles have two trade-wind seasons:
- Southeast trades (roughly May to October) – dry but windy, with stronger winds from June to August. Exposed southern and eastern coasts get big waves and strong currents, while western bays are usually calmer.
- Northwest monsoon (roughly November to March) – hotter and more humid with short tropical showers. Now the west and northwest coast (including Beau Vallon) can get swell, while the southeast is calmer.
- April and October/November are the in-between months, often with the calmest seas.
My one-day Mahé itinerary (by car)
This route runs down the west coast to the south of the island and back. Adjust the order to the wind – if the southeast trades are blowing, swim in the west and only look at the south.
8:30 – Breakfast and a quick look at Victoria
If you’re staying in the north, start with a short stop in Victoria, one of the smallest capitals in the world. The colourful market and the little clock tower are enough for a quick coffee-and-a-walk before the beaches. Then drive south along the west coast.
10:00 – Anse Soleil
Anse Soleil is a small, pretty cove in the southwest. It’s easy: you can drive all the way down, and there’s food, a café and drinks right on the beach. Good for a first swim and a cold coconut.
11:00 – Petite Anse
Just around the corner is Petite Anse with gorgeous white sand. You can’t drive down: you leave the car at the entrance and walk about 15 minutes. Going down is easy; coming back up is uphill, so bring water. In my opinion it’s worth every step.
12:00 – Baie Lazare and Takamaka
Continue to Baie Lazare – this is where many weddings in the Seychelles take place, and it has a famous rock that everyone photographs. A little further south, Takamaka beach is lovely too, with palm trees and also popular for weddings. (Yes, we have a soft spot for Seychelles wedding beaches – more about that in a separate guide soon.)
13:00 – Lunch in the south: Leo’s or Bibi’s
This was one of my favourite discoveries: cheap, generous Creole food at local takeaways in the south of Mahé.
- Bibi’s take away – I had a pizza for 150 SCR and a hamburger is around 50 SCR; ready-cooked Creole meals cost about 150 SCR and the portions are huge.
- Leo’s fast food – you order and wait while they cook. They have everything: burgers, chicken, rice, potatoes, pork, fish, tuna, squid and prawns, and it’s all cheap – up to about 200 SCR.
In a country known for expensive resorts, places like these are the secret to eating well without spending a fortune.
14:30 – Anse Intendance: the wild beach in the far south
Down at the very south of Mahé is Anse Intendance – a long, wild beach with palms, granite rocks and a beach bar nearby. Sea turtles come here to lay their eggs, and the area is also known as a nursery for sharks – but they very rarely bother people. This is also the beach where you’ll see the big waves: when the southeast trades blow it’s more for watching and photos than for swimming. On calm days it’s magical.
16:00 – Port Launay (west coast)
Drive back up the west coast to Port Launay, the liveliest beach we visited. Boats and catamarans anchor in the bay and have parties on board, there’s music and a buzz in the air. You can rent transparent kayaks for about 500 SCR, SUP boards and sun loungers. It’s part of a marine park, so the snorkelling can be great on calm days.
On the way you’ll see signs for the Port Glaud lagoon (often called the Blue Lagoon). Honestly, I don’t think it’s worth it – it’s a small beach, not very clean, and the sea floor isn’t sandy.
17:30 – Sunset and a snack with a giant tortoise
For a fun stop, look for Bites for Health snack shop – the only fast food I know where you can see a real giant tortoise and even feed it. Then finish the day at sunset on the west coast.
Evening – Sushi at Beau Vallon
If you’re staying in the north, Beau Vallon is the busiest beach area for dinner. We liked the sushi restaurant Wooden, near the bungalow accommodation there.
The most beautiful beaches on Mahé (my picks)
| Beach | Why go | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Petite Anse | White sand, quiet, gorgeous water | Park at the entrance and walk ~15 min (uphill back) |
| Public beach by the market | Small, cute and prettier than most beaches | Park at the market and walk down the little stairs next to the bus stop |
| Anse Soleil | Easy cove with food and drinks | You can drive all the way down |
| Takamaka | Palm trees, popular for weddings | Check the waves in the southeast season |
| Baie Lazare | Wedding beach with a famous rock | Good photo stop |
| Anse Intendance | Wild beauty, turtles, big waves | Swim only on calm days |
| Port Launay | Lively, boats, kayaks and SUP | Transparent kayaks about 500 SCR |
| Port Glaud “Blue Lagoon” | – | Not worth it in my opinion |
My tips for Mahé
- Rent a car for at least one day – it’s the easiest way to beach-hop.
- Drive slowly and on the left; the narrow roads are the biggest stress, not the distances.
- Pick beaches by the wind, not just by photos – the calm side changes with the season.
- Eat at local takeaways like Leo’s and Bibi’s to keep your budget sane.
- Carry rupees for small places, kayak rentals and parking attendants.
- Reef-safe sunscreen, hat and water – the sun is strong all year.
More of the Seychelles
From Mahé, the ferry takes about an hour to Praslin – see my one day on Praslin guide for Anse Lazio and the Vallée de Mai – and from there it’s 15 minutes to La Digue, the island of bikes and giant tortoises. Everything else – entry rules, best time to visit and costs – is in my Seychelles travel guide. More destinations: Africa travel guide.
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Mahé FAQ
Is one day enough for Mahé?
One day by car is enough to see the best beaches of the west and south coast, eat at a local takeaway and catch the sunset. Mahé deserves two or three days if you also want hiking, snorkelling and Victoria.
Which side of Mahé is best for swimming?
It depends on the season. From about May to October the southeast trade winds make the south and east rougher, so west-coast bays are calmer. From about November to March the west and northwest can get swell, and the southeast is calmer.
Is it easy to drive on Mahé?
Distances are short, but you drive on the left and the roads are very narrow, steep and winding. Drive slowly and let buses and locals pass.
What is the most beautiful beach on Mahé?
My favourites were Petite Anse for its white sand, the small public beach by the market, and Anse Intendance for its wild scenery. Takamaka and Anse Soleil are lovely and easy too.
Is the Port Glaud Blue Lagoon worth visiting?
In my experience, no. It is a small beach, it wasn’t clean when we visited, and the sea floor isn’t sandy. Port Launay nearby is a much better choice.
Is food expensive on Mahé?
Restaurants and resorts are expensive, but local takeaways are good value. At Bibi’s take away a pizza was 150 SCR and a hamburger about 50 SCR, and at Leo’s fast food most meals cost up to about 200 SCR.
Miki Kokica
Travel blogger behind One Day Itinerary. I test every route myself and write honest, practical guides so you can make the most of a single day anywhere.
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